The flight into Huatulco was uneventful. It actually left the chaos of Mexico City on time, which was a pleasant surprise. With my luggage retrieved, I stepped out into the thick humidity of the day outside of Huatulco airport, and pulled my phone out to see how far my hotel was from the airport. As soon as I open Google maps, something looked off. I see myself as the blue dot on the map at the airport. Not far from that blue dot is an angry red swirly looking icon – a kind of angry red Tasmanian devil without a face – that I have never seen on Google maps before – and it came along with an alarming alert banner indicating that I was in the path of Hurricane Agatha. So this post is about things to do in Huatulco, when you stupidly land there in the direct path of a hurricane.
Contents:
- How to survive unknowingly flying directly into a path of a Hurricane in Mexico
- A Post Hurricane Vacation
- Where to stay in Huatulco
- Dining
- Seven Bays Boat Tour
- Walk to the many beaches of Huatulco
- Temezcal
- Go to a Mezcal tasting
- Trip costs for 7 days and 6 nights in Huatulco, Mexico
- Final thoughts on Huatulco, Mexico
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How to survive unknowingly flying directly into a path of a Hurricane in Mexico:
“Whhaaa..?!!?” I thought as I frantically Googled to learn more about this hurricane that I had flown directly into. Disbelief and anger rolled through my mind – how did the airline let us get on a flight here when they knew we would be landing directly into the path of a hurricane? I cursed Volaris. I cursed myself for not doing a cursory Google search about “Huatulco” before getting on the flight – which undoubtedly would have yielded the news that the town was in the direct path of a hurricane. As I finally got my wits together – I remembered that Jens was due to board his flight from Mexico City to Huatulco. This visit was supposed to be a lovely 1 week couple’s getaway that we have been scheduling every couple of months or so around the world to see each other during my sabbatical. No time to think about our dashed vacation plans – Jens needs to know before he boards the flight!
“Babe, Hurricane Agatha is due to hit Huatulco tomorrow!”…is not what you want to hear when you’re lining up to board your flight to Huatulco – but there we were. Weirdly enough – no one on his flight was informed about the impending hurricane either. As we mulled what to do, the government closed the airspace over Oaxaca. Choice made. Jens was not going to be joining me tonight in Huatulco; and I can’t even get out of the city as the airspace has been closed. I’m on my own and a hurricane is going to hit tomorrow.
I numbly arrange a collective taxi from the airport to my hotel – by the way much cheaper than a private taxi (160MXN or $10USD) – and it took less than 5 minutes to get other travelers to join me. The other travelers were also separated from their travel group due to the hurricane. They told me the rest of their family was due to arrive tomorrow. I held back from divulging that I saw that the hurricane was to make landfall tomorrow – better to let them wait in hope than in gloom.
When I got to my hotel, I felt a small wave of relief wash over me, as the building looked very new and made of solid concrete. The workers at the hotel reception are friendly and seemed very non-fussed about the whole being in a path of a hurricane situation. “It’s not going to be that bad” they assured me – and I felt some of the anxiety melt away – as they genuinely do not seem concerned.
The hotel is half-empty, and I’m given an excellent room on a high floor overlooking the pool with views of the ocean. Under non-hurricane circumstances, this would be a score of a room. Being placed high up in the hotel also made me feel more assured in the event of flooding.
Knowing most of the restaurants will be locked down as the hurricane approaches. I went to Chedraui – an equivalent of Mexican Walmart – that was conveniently situated walking distance from my hotel, to pick up supplies for the next couple of days.
I figured if I was going to be trapped in a hotel room for a few days, the least I could do was get some nice wine or mezcal to make the entrapment more enjoyable. The government had other plans however – alcohol sales were suspended in Oaxaca due to the state of emergency. “Nooooooo!!!” I thought. Now I have to be alone in my room without anything to help numb my semi-existential fear as a hurricane rolls in.
Meanwhile in Mexico City, Aeromexico was really pulling through for Jens. All passengers from the cancelled flight were put up in 4 and 5 star hotels with meal vouchers. This is remarkable service as passengers are not generally entitled to compensation for flight cancellations due to weather events. Gold star to Aeromexico.
As Jens is enjoying a free trip to Mexico City, going on walking tours, eating delicious food and discovering the city’s craft beer scene; I’m sitting in my hotel room eating cans of tuna and drinking plain water as hurricane approaches – trying not to doom scroll through Google into an even more stressed out state.
The weather in Huatulco was not too bad the first day. Very grey skies, heavy humidity in the air, light rain occasionally, just a gentle prelude to what was to come the next day when Agatha was scheduled to make landfall. I tried to go to bed early but my mind was racing about what it was going to be like the next day when the hurricane made landfall. It was shaping up to be a Category 3.
“Category 1 is nothing to worry about, category 2, you might get some damage. Category 3 you might want to think about leaving town” I recall my friend from Florida telling me about his experiences with the frequent hurricanes where he lived. Leaving town is not an option – given the airspace is closed and the risk of landslides would probably make road evacuation even more risky than staying in place. I surveyed the hotel room to find the safest spot to hide in case the windows shattered. The closet seemed like a good bet – well away from the windows with concrete walls on 3 sides.
I woke up to rain and wind the next morning, that steadily intensified as Agatha made landfall. At some point the rain became so intense, it was hitting building sideways with such intensity that the water was coming into the room despite the well-sealed sliding doors. I soaked up the water with the towels as best as I could, but eventually had to run down to reception to get more towels as the water kept seeping through.
The winds also intensified as the hurricane made landfall, causing the windows to shake and vibrate – but they held. Hurricanes lose power quickly once they make landfall, and by the next day, the bad weather had cleared up enough that Jens was able to fly from Mexico city to join me for the rest of our trip.
A post-hurricane vacation:
Jens was finally able to join me on day 3 of our 8 day getaway. Better late than never – all things – including a hurricane considered. Agatha was just shy of a Category 3 Hurricane by time it made landfall in Huatulco. I was surprised at how quickly things went back to normal the day after. There was surprisingly little damage to the tourist infrastructure in Huatulco – and while the skies were still a little cloudy, the rain and wind had ceased.
Where to stay in Huatulco:
There are different areas in the Huatulco area to stay. Jens and I chose the oceanside area of La Crucecita as our home base as it is walking distance to a number of beaches. Jens and I stayed at Casa Danna Huatulco – which was my solid shelter during the Hurricane. Staff were excellent during the emergency, and the building held solidly during a category 3 hurricane so you are in good hands at these accommodations. They are just steps away from the ocean, and there’s a lovely pool as well.
For a more luxurious experience, Quinta Bella Huatulco is right on the beachfront in La Crucecita and is one of the best reviewed hotels in the area.
Dining:
Oaxaca is known for its amazing food. Tlayuda is an iconic Oaxacan filled tortilla sandwich that is a must-try when you visit the province. Jens and I asked a few locals and the consensus was the best Tlayudas in Huatulco can be found at La Reyna de las Tlayudas (see map). This low key eatery had amazing food, excellent service, and low prices. The Tlayudas were indeed the best here. Given Huatulco’s location by the sea, you may be hankering for some seafood. Great seafood at affordable prices is available at El Cameron Borracho.
Jens and I also visited the Bladu’Yú Restaurant by the beachfront in La Crucecita quite frequently. The restaurant was just a 5 minute walk from our hotel, and was next to the beach which was great. They serve excellent breakfast/brunch and also have great offerings for lunch and dinner.
For super-cheap, delicious tacos, try Taqueria Rodriguez – a taco stand set-up right outside the Chedraui in La Crucecita. A huge variety of tacos for 15MXN (approx. $0.85USD) each.
Seven Bays Boat Tour:
Huatulco is famous for its many bays. One of the best ways to see them is by boat. Jens and I went on a full-day boat tour of the 7 bays of Huatulco. The tour passes by 7 bays, and makes stops at the virgin bay of Chachacual – where there was excellent snorkeling as well as the Bay of Maguey to get lunch (not included) or just relax for a couple of hours at the beautiful beach. Snorkel gear was not included, but Jens and I bought our own. Overall, this is an excellent excursion to do if you’re in Huatulco.
Walk to the many beaches of Huatulco:
There are many beaches within walking distance or short taxi distance of La Crucecita that Jens and I ended up visiting a number of beautiful beaches closeby to La Crucecita including Playa Cacaluta and Bahia Maguey via the Camino Al Maguey.
Of particular note was our walk from La Crucecita to Bahia Organo (about 4.5km one way – or about one hour walk). Once we got on the rugged jungle trail towards the beach from the main road, we came upon a grove of ripe wild mangos, and went hog-wild collecting some of the freshly fallen ones. We had a mango bonanza on the beach and took some back with us to enjoy at the hotel as well.
Temezcal:
If you have a bout of bad weather in Huatulco a great way to spend a less than sunny day is to try Temezcal. Temezcal is an herbal sweat lodge experience that has its roots in pre-Hispanic Mexico. The experience is as much about spirituality as it is about the physical experience and traditionally is presided over by a shaman. Nowadays temezcals are often more like spa treatments than authentic spiritual experiences – but they are nonetheless enjoyable and relaxing so long as you understand you know that what you’re getting likely not truly authentic and are ok with it.
Jens and I took a visit to Temezcal Na-Ha Maya (see map), and really enjoyed the experience. I took the basic package which included a 30 minute temezcal experience, and 10 minute massage (600MXN or around 35USD) and Jens did the premium package 3 which included the 30 minute Temezcal experience and 60 minute massage (1200MXN/$70USD) we both loved the experience. The clay scrub in particular left my skin feeling 20 years younger. Jens and I just walked to Temezcal Na-Ha Maya as it was just a short distance away from our hotel at Casa Danna; however, I believe they also have a free pickup and drop-off service in case your hotel is further away.
Go to a Mezcal tasting:
Oaxaca is the birthplace of one of my favorite spirits: Mezcal. Made of agave – like its popular cousin Tequila – Mezcal has a smoky flavor from the production process where the plants are charred in dug-out pits in the ground before continuing in the production process whereas Tequila is not. Mezcal is a must-try when in Oaxaca.
Jens and I went to El Buen Mezcal (see map) for a Mezcal tasting and it was amazing. Tastings are free, and they often throw in a chocolate tasting as well. This was a great place to buy artisanal Mezcal. We bought two bottles including a reposado called La Reliquia which is one of the best Mezcals I’ve tasted to date. Funnily enough I ended up carrying this little bottle of La Reliquia (or the “relic” straight across Spain on a pilgrimage…)
Trip Costs (for two people) for 8 days and 7 nights in Huatulco, Mexico:
Accommodations: $270USD
Transportation: $40USD
Excursions: $70USD
Temezcal: $105USD
Food and Dining: $125.80USD*
Mezcal and Souvenirs: $40USD
Total: $650.80USD for two people ($325.40USD per person)
*Not the most accurate as Jens was missing from these expenses for a few days.
Final thoughts on Huatulco Mexico:
Believe it or not, this is not the first time I landed in a place right in time for a major weather disaster to happen. Back in 2018, I managed to be in Kyoto when Typhoon Jebi – largest Typhoon in 25 years to hit Japan – rolled through. You would think something like this only happens to a person once – but I guess I prove to be an exception. Hurricane Agatha was only the 3rd Hurricane to hit Oaxaca in the month of May in all of recorded history – so I do appear to have a knack for being present for historical weather events. I will certainly read more weather reports before I set out from now on.
While my visit to Huatulco started off …rough… to say the least; once Hurricane Agatha blew through, and Jens was able to join me; we had a lovely time. Huatulco is destination of endless beaches. You could visit several a day and probably not discover all of them. The upside of visiting Huatulco right after a hurricane is that were are hardly any tourists around and Jens and I often had whole beaches and even wild mango groves all to ourselves.
