Traveling by slow boat from Thailand to Laos is a unique way to travel between two of the most popular countries in the SE Asia backpacking circuit. While the concept is romantic, do note that this is not the easiest, and certainly not the fastest way to get from Thailand to Laos. The overland options including van transfer plus the train would be faster, and a flight would be even faster still. However, if you have the time and inclination; meandering down Mekong River over two days offers a unique way to experience the region’s natural beauty and local life, while getting you from one country to the other. In this guide, I’ll walk you through everything you need to know—from how to book and what to pack, to tips on border crossings, accommodations, food, and what to expect onboard the slow boat journey from Thailand to Laos.
Route Overview
- Starting Point: Typically Chiang Rai, Thailand
- Border Crossing: Chiang Khong (Thailand) to Huay Xai (Laos)
- Day 1: Huay Xai to Pakbeng (6–7 hours)
- Overnight: Pakbeng, Laos
- Day 2: Pakbeng to Luang Prabang (6–8 hours)
Trip Overview:
The most popular major starting point for the 2 day slow boat transfer from Thailand to Laos is Chiang Rai in Thailand, with the ending point in Laos being Luang Prabang. The slow boat transfer can also run vice-versa – Laos to Thailand – but such transfers are rare as you are going upstream on the Mekong. If originating in Laos towards Thailand, bus, rail and flight transfers would be most common. Note that despite the name, you’re not actually going to be on a boat the entire two days and will spend an evening in Pakbeng, Laos between the two boat travel days. You’ll also cross the border between Thailand and Laos at Chiang Khong, Thailand on day one by land, then the boat will take you to Pakbeng, Laos where you’ll spend the evening landside. You can purchase an all-inclusive ticket that includes (and guarantees) all the ground transfer services to the boats as well as to the border crossing (Click on “Ferries” option on the transport type filter)
2 Day slow boat itinerary
Day 1:
Starting point (likely Chiang Rai) to Chiang Khong, Thailand
Chiang Khong is the Thai border town across the river from Huay Xai, Laos. Most travelers arrive from Chiang Rai (approx. 2.5–3 hours by bus or minivan). Buses leave regularly from the Chiang Rai bus terminal.
Tip:
Purchase an all-inclusive ticket that guarantees connections as a hassle-free way to make sure you don’t end up losing time to missed transfers. The company will have someone basically walk you through all the connections and make sure you’re not left behind. (Click on “Ferries” option on the transport type filter to the right hand side)
Crossing the Border: What to Expect
The Chiang Khong–Huay Xai border crossing is straightforward but has a few important steps. Here’s how it works:
Step 1: Thai Immigration – Exit Thailand
- Head to the Thai Immigration Office in Chiang Khong.
- Present your passport and departure card to receive your exit stamp.
- Once stamped out of Thailand, you’ll need to catch a border shuttle bus to cross the Friendship Bridge into Laos. Note: on an all-inclusive ticket, a guide will walk you over to your pre-paid shuttle to cross the bridge into Laos.
Border Shuttle Cost:
- Around 20–25 THB (~$0.60–$0.75 USD)
- Border shuttle is included an-inclusive ticket.
Step 2: Laos Immigration – Enter Laos at Huay Xai
After crossing the bridge, you’ll arrive at the Laos immigration terminal in Huay Xai. Most travelers are eligible for a visa on arrival.
Visa on Arrival Details:
- Cost: $35–$45 USD (varies by nationality; most common fee is $35 USD) *Note that all-inclusive transfer tickets do not include the cost of your visa. Please plan to have the requisite amount of cash required for your visa.
- Payment: Bring USD cash (small bills are best). Some travelers are charged extra if they pay in Thai Baht or Lao Kip.
- You’ll need:
- Passport valid for 6+ months
- One passport photo (If you don’t have one, they’ll scan your photo and may charge a $1 fee)
- Completed visa form (available at the desk)
Extra “Stamping Fee” or “Service Fee”:
- Between 10,000–20,000 LAK (~$0.50–$1 USD)
- Often applied outside of regular business hours or on weekends/holidays. I had wondered whether this fee was of the “greasing palms” variety – but it’s literally only $1USD, so I just went with it.
Once approved, you’ll receive a 30-day tourist visa for Laos. After this, proceed through customs and you’ll officially be in Laos!
Buying Your Slow Boat Ticket
Once in Huay Xai, you can either:
- Book in advance (select “ferries” option from the top or side navigation bars to find the slow boat options). I would recommend just booking an all-inclusive ticket that guarantees all your connections in advance to save yourself the hassle of buying individual tickets.
- Book through a hostel or a guesthouse
- Buy directly at the boat dock
Typical Prices (if booking on your own at the boat dock):
- Around 220,000–260,000 LAK (~$11–$13 USD)
Departure Time: Boats usually leave between 9:30 and 11:00 AM, so aim to arrive early.
What to Expect on the Slow Boat:
Seating is often a free-for-all on the boats – my advice would be to try to get on the boat first and sit in the middle of the boat by the windows in order to get ventilation while the boat is in motion. Depending on the season, some boats might be loaded to what I would call “uncomfortable capacity”. Avoid sitting at the rear of the boat as that is where the engine is located, and it can be very loud in that area.
Luggage Storage
Large bags are stored in the front or back of the boat. Keep valuables in your daypack, which stays with you.
Food & Drink
Most boats will sell drinks (ie: beer, soda, water), instant noodles, and other snacks – but for more substantial fare, it would be best to bring your own food, and plenty of water.
Overnight in Pakbeng
Pakbeng is a sleepy riverside town where all slow boats stop overnight.
Accommodation
- You’ll find plenty of guesthouse owners waiting at the dock ready to escort you to their property – the caveat with this is you don’t really know what kind of property you’re going to be led to. Although you can always say “no” once you take a look at the property.
- Rooms typically cost 50,000–150,000 LAK ($3–$12 USD).
- If booking ahead consider the Mekong Riverside Lodge (approx. $10-12USD) which is just a 1-2 minute walk from the slow-boat dock and offers rooms overlooking the river. This property often books out, so it is a nice one to consider if you want to stay by the river.
- If you want a luxury experience, consider the Sanctuary Pakbeng Lodge (approximately $35 – 50USD), about a 5-10 minute walk from the slow boat dock (although a free driver pick-up from the slow boat dock is included), beautiful rooms overlooking the river, a pool, and an excellent restaurant with riverside views.
Dining
- Consider the very well-reviewed Sabaidee Restaurant which serves a very unique “Buffalo Laap” and “Buffalo Curry” among other popular Laotian dishes
- The Alisa Restaurant is open early for you to get breakfast and a sandwich or takeaway order for your onward boat trip.
Day 2:
Grab breakfast and lunch to go at Alisa Restaurant or another food outlet in Pakbeng, and try to get on your boat early to get a good seat for day 2.
Day 2 is a much more relaxed day than day 1 without the relative chaos of having to cross an international border.
Enjoy the boat ride, crack open a Lao Beer, and chat with your fellow travellers along the way.
The boat will arrive at a dock on the outskirts of the Luang Prabang just an hour or so before sunset. The views are truly stunning from the river, so do take a minute to enjoy your arrival.
Open disembarkation, there will already be a number of Songthaews (collective transport buses/vans) waiting to take you into the city. The cost should be around 50,000 LAK *Note if you purchased an all-inclusive ticket, the Songthaew ride into the city center of Luang Prabang is not typically included
What to Pack for the Journey
Here’s a quick list of must-haves for two comfortable days on the Mekong:
- Passport, visa, and USD cash
- Travel cushion, ultralight towel, or sarong
- Food, snacks, lots of water
- Entertainment: book, e-reader, laptop, journal (although you’ll likely befriend those around you on the boat and have great conversations to pass the time)
- Powerbank (no outlets onboard)
- Sunscreen, sunglasses, hat
- Mosquito repellant (you’ll be floating in a river, the bugs will come out – especially at dawn and dusk). I recommend and use Picardin Repellants which have been tested to be as effective as Deet, but generally considered safer to use.
- Toilet paper, hand sanitizer
- Flip flops and comfy clothes
- Silk sleep sack – for your overnight accommodations in Pakbeng. They only weigh about 100 grams, and you’ll be glad you have it if your accommodations end up being more “rustic” than anticipated.
Best Time to Go
- Nov–Feb (Cool/Dry Season): Best weather, comfortable temperatures
- Mar–May (Hot Season): Scorching temperatures and smoky skies
- Jun–Oct (Rainy Season): Lush scenery but possible delays and slick terrain
Alternatives to the Slow Boat
Speedboat – Fast but dangerous, loud, and uncomfortable. Not recommended.
Bus/Minivan – Cheaper but bumpy, long, and not scenic.
Flight – Easiest option from Chiang Rai to Luang Prabang, but more expensive and you miss the journey.
All options can be reviewed and booked here: https://12go.tpk.mx/phNtYvgi
Tips for the Best Experience
- Sit on the left side on Day 1 and right side on Day 2 for the best views
- Arrive early at the dock for better seats
- Avoid sitting near the engine at the back of the boat (noisy and hot)
- Bring headphones and offline playlists or audiobooks
- Chat with fellow travelers—it’s a social ride!
Quick Checklist Summary
- Pre-book an all-inclusive ticket from Chiang Rai or Huay Xay to ensure a smooth journey
- Pre-book accommodations in Pakbeng
- Ensure your passport is eligible to get a Laos visa on arrival, and ensure you bring enough cash in USD
- Bring snacks, water, cushion, and entertainment
- Arrive in Luang Prabang by late afternoon on Day 2
- Pre-book accommodations in Luang Prabang
Why the Slow Boat is Worth It
Taking the slow boat between Thailand and Laos is more than just about transportation. It is a choice to embrace the journey, let go of our typical need to hustle from point A to point B, and connect with the landscape, the river, and the people around you. It’s a rare kind of travel experience that’s both peaceful and immersive, and a fantastic introduction to the laid-back rhythm of Laos.
Final Thoughts
The 2-day slow boat journey from Thailand to Laos is an unforgettable adventure that blends slow travel with rich scenery and authentic moments. Whether you’re watching golden sunsets from the deck, waving to villagers from the river, or chatting with travelers from all over the world, the experience leaves a lasting impression.
Take your time, pack your patience, and let the Mekong take you where you need to go: slowly, beautifully, and memorably.
