A short boat ride away from Vancouver is a beautiful island full of gorgeous ocean vistas, peaceful forested trails, and wonderful people brimming with laid-back island vibes. Bikepacking on Salt Spring offers a plethora of experiences. From oceanside camping at Ruckle Park, to various wineries, breweries and farm-to-table dining experiences thanks to the local small-scale farmers, bakers and artisans who offer their produce and products in charming roadside farm-stands that line many of the bucolic country roads. The generous hills on the island will ensure that you come back fitter than when you left – no matter how much delicious wine and goat cheese you consume.
Making your weekend getaway to Salt Spring Islands a bikepacking trip helps you save considerable cash in terms of avoiding expensive car transport fees on the ferry, but also save you the headache and stress of trying to get a car reservation on the ferry – which can be next to impossible on weekends. On the flip side, I have always gotten on the ferry with a bicycle, even without a reservation on a long weekend. Save yourself some stress and cash, and try bikepacking! The hills on Salt Spring Island are challenging even for experienced cyclists – but if you’re relatively fit – I recommend you give it a try. There’s no shame in pushing your bike up some of the larger hills and at worse, a kindly local driver would probably give you a ride if you’re really stuck on the side of the road. If biking is truly not your thing, the Public Transit system on Salt Spring Island typically runs special summer season routes to Ruckle Provincial Park, and fare is only $2.25CAD – so that is an option for non-cyclists who want to experience Salt Spring on a budget.
The Bike Ride from Long Harbour to Ruckle Park:
The ride from Long Harbour to the main town of Ganges is a net uphill ride, but the real hilliness doesn’t start until you take the first big hill out of Ganges. Brace yourself, it’s a biggie – about a 13% grade for 1.5km – if you see it coming up and you think you can’t make it all the way up, hop off your bike BEFORE you get on the hill as trying to get off your bike while you’re going up a hill this steep is not recommended. The road from Ganges to Ruckle features 2 – 3 more sections with large hills alternating between rolling terrain. On-route to Ruckle, you’ll pass Cusheon Lake – a nice swim/cool off spot if you need a break. Right before you get into Ruckle Point, you’ll pass the Ruckle Family Farm Stand. Definitely recommend stopping here for some farm-fresh veggies, eggs, meats, coffee and baked goods before you bike another 5 minutes into the campground. Interesting note: Ruckle Provincial Park was made possible by a generous land donation by the Ruckle family – whose heritage farm still operates adjacent to the park.
Camping at Ruckle Provincial Park:
Ruckle Provincial Park features a mixture of reservable campsites as well as first-come-first served campsites. If you don’t manage to score a reservation online, don’t fear, the most beautiful sites at Ruckle Park are actually the oceanside first-come, first-served sites. There are approximately 58 first-come first serve campsites at Ruckle Park, and an overflow area for cyclists. Unless it’s a long-weekend, it’s unlikely you’ll be turned away if you arrive as a cyclist without a reservation. There’s a certain respect for the journey you’ve made by bicycle, and the general understanding that you’re probably completely exhausted with nowhere else to really go; so the park rangers always try to accommodate cyclists in overflow spaces. I’ve also seen cyclists also accommodated by other campers who have extra space on their campsites as well.
There’s a phenomenon called the “Ruckle Shuffle” that happens every morning during the high season (Spring/Summer/early-Autumn). There are even these yellow park wheelbarrows to help you transport your items from campsite-to-campsite. If you didn’t manage the score that oceanside spot the night before at Ruckle, there’s a good chance there’s an opportunity to get a better spot the next morning as people depart. This happens even during the long weekends as some car campers inevitably need to leave early to get a ferry reservation. It’s also a good idea to get up early at Ruckle as its east-facing location means that the sunrises are spectacular – on some mornings you might even see a pod of orcas swim by!
Hiking at Ruckle Park:
The Ruckle Park shoreline trail an easy to moderate hike along the seaside from the Ruckle Park campground all the way to Yeo Point – an excellent ocean viewpoint where you watch boats go by while you have lunch. The trail then loops down through a gorgeous old growth forest and along the Ruckle Heritage Farm, back to the campground. The trail loop is about 15KM, and it is a beautiful way to spend the day. Along with beautiful ocean vistas and beaches as you head up to Yeo Point; the forested trail back to the campground offers another version of nature’s beauty as stunning as the seaside views you had going up to Yeo Point.
Activities on Saltspring Island:
The premier brewery on Salt Spring Island, featuring small-batch craft beers made with locally-grown hops. Water used to produce the beers are piped directly from a spring on the property into the brewhouse; and spent grain from the brewing process are donated to the local organic farms whose farm-stands line the road leading up to the brewery! Delicious tasting flights available to be enjoyed on their forested on-site outdoor patio and tasting room. My favourites were the Heather Ale, and the Crème Brulée Stout. Pick up some delicious local beer on your way out, and peruse the non-GMO meats and produce offered by the farmstands along Furness Road that the spent grains from the brewery help to grow.
Salt Spring Vineyards and Tasting Room:
Wines made from 100% local Salt Spring Island grown grapes. Grapes are hand-harvested and crushed and bottled no the property. Eclectic tasting room, with friendly staff. Wines available at vineyard prices for purchases to consume on the vineyard grounds. Well-curated selection of locally made breads, cheeses, meat, jams and tapenades available for purchase to create your own picnic after your wine tasting. Beautiful grounds with picnic tables near a pond with ducks.
Established in 1996, Salt Spring Island Cheese has been a beloved island fixture ever since. Don’t miss visiting this island gem. Free cheese tastings along with recommended locally-produced jam pairings is worth the trip up in and of itself. Farm shop features a wide variety of on-site produced cheeses as well as other locally-produced artisan products such as jams, meats, chocolates and other sweets. You can even view the cheese production area (from behind some glass windows). You might even meet the goats whose milk is used to produce the cheese right on-site! Call ahead if visiting the goats is important – as they are often taken out to pasture for grazing. Onsite café has features a delicious variety of organic goat-cheese pizzas, salads and desserts. Don’t miss out of the goat’s milk ice-cream in the summers. Beautiful garden patio available for consumption of products purchased onsite.
Originally a century-old farm used for sheep grazing, Gerry Oaks Winery was established when Marcel Mercier and Elaine Kozak purchased the property in 1999 and slowly began to convert it to grape-growing. The winery is now run by woman entrepreneur Nalini Samuel who has since introduced sparkling and dessert wines to the winery’s award-winning roster. All wines are produced using estate-grown grapes and are bottled onsite.
Salt Spring Island Saturday Market:
A fabulous showcase of locally produced Salt Spring Islands foods, crafts, and art. Conveniently located in the town of Ganges, the market runs on Saturdays from 9am – 4pm starting the first weekend of April (or Easter – whichever is first), until the last weekend of October. Over 120 vendors and artists showcase their products and artwork at the Saturday market – and all goods at the market must be vendor produced and sold. Excellent spot to pick up some unique locally-produced artwork, skincare products, household goods and a plethora of food and snack options to choose from so you don’t go hungry. Wonderful way to spend a Saturday morning/afternoon on Salt Spring Island.
A stop at Ciderworks is my go-to way to wrap-up a trip to Salt Spring Island. Conveniently situated just an 8km ride from the Long Harbour ferry terminal; Ciderworks is an amazing place to spend a bit of time before your ferry back to the mainland. Given the 23KM bike ride from Ruckle Park to Long Harbour is almost as hilly as the ride going in, I always try to leave myself extra time to account for the hills, and also for any bike issues I might experience along the way. Heading into Ciderworks if you’ve got extra time on your hands is a great way to reward yourself for a bikepacking journey nearly complete; and the stunning orchard and ocean views from their patio space will be a trip highlight for sure. Happy note: the 8km ride from Ciderworks to Long Harbour ferry terminal is net downhill!
Costs:
The ferry ride from Vancouver to Long Habour on Salt Spring island will run you about $19CAD (the same ferry ride with a vehicle will run you $87CAD). The 23KM bike ride where you climb and descend about 300 meters or about 1000 feet – will probably burn at least 1000 calories each way. A night at the spectacular oceanside Ruckle Provincial Park will run you $20CAD, while most brick and mortar accommodations on the island will run you around $200CAD per night. A three-day, two-night bike packing trip will run you about $78CAD (and about 2000 – 3000 calories burned) while the same trip with a vehicle and brick and mortar accommodations will run you about $600CAD but you get to keep the calories.
Conclusion:
With a base cost of approximately $78CAD, bikepacking on Salt Spring Island is a very affordable weekend get-away. It’s about the cheapest oceanside get-away you’re going to be able to get in Canada. With all the delicious food you’re going to eat, and local wines, beers and ciders you’re going to taste, the hilly bike rides will help you burn those extra calories and safely return home without too many extra pounds. I have done this trip as a solo rider, and also as a couple’s weekend bikepacking getaway – it’s wonderful no matter what your situation!