Bocas del Toro, the Caribbean gem of Panama, lies at the northwestern point of the country next to the Costa Rican border. As I was already in Puerto Viejo in Costa Rica – which is within an hour (or two) of travel to Bocas del Toro, it was a no brainer to pay this beautiful part of the world a visit. Unable to pick just one island in Bocas to visit; I ended up spending 11 days island-hopping in Bocas del Toro, and ultimately stayed on three islands: Isla Colon, Isla Solarte, and Isla Bastimentos.
Contents:
- Transportation and the land-border crossing between Costa Rica and Panama
- Isla Colon and Bocas Town
- Money
- Starfish Beach
- Cayos Zapatillos
- Isla Solarte
- The Blue Coconut
- Isla Bastimentos
- Wizard Beach
- Polo Beach
- Trip Costs for 11 days and 9 nights in Bocas del Toro
- Final thoughts on Island Hopping in Bocas del Toro
This post includes affiliate links. If you make a purchase via one of these links, I may receive a small percentage at no extra cost to you.
Transportation and the land-border crossing between Costa Rica and Panama:
The border crossing can be a little tricky to navigate. You need to pay the Costa Rican exit tax at a kiosk at the border before crossing by foot with all your luggage. Then you’ll need to pass Panamanian customs and border control – which requires you to have a flight ticket from anywhere in Central America to your home country. Note: a bus ticket or flight to any country either than your home country will not suffice. If you have a series of transportation tickets you can show to the Panamanian border officer that shows your itinerary back to your home country, this will also work – but you need an itinerary back to your home country – it’s convoluted, but it’s required – don’t get stuck trying to panic buy a flight back to your home country at the border.
If your schedule is not set, you can buy a refundable ticket and cancel it later – but chose a company with a good reputation for customer service – I have personally had problems with Avianca, and others I talked to had an impossible time trying to get a refund on a refundable ticket from Iberia. As I have 1K status with United, I always just buy tickets on points and refund the ticket later – it’s as easy as two clicks on my phone and everything is refunded and points redeposited – caution however, this level of service is for United 1K customers, it may not be the same for all United customers.
I chose to use the Puerto Viejo to Bocas del Toro shuttle service offered by Caribe Shuttle. The shuttle is approximately $35USD, and walks you through every stage of the border crossing process. They make sure you have all your documents in order, and offer direct transport door-to-door from your accommodations in Puerto Viejo to the main ferry dock in Bocas del Toro. The ferry from the mainland in Panama to Bocas del Toro is also included in the $35USD. I was very happy with the service, and would recommend it for those traveling between Puerto Viejo and Bocas del Toro. You can certainly get from Puerto Viejo to Bocas del Toro on your own for less money, but the efficiency of the service (ie: not having to wait for a public buses both in Costa Rica and Panama), and also the fact that you have guide walking you through the whole process gave me peace of mind to enjoy the journey, rather than clamor through the process on my own.
Isla Colon and Bocas Town:
Isla Colon contains the main transport and commercial hub of Bocas Town. Regular ferries run from Almirante on the mainland to Bocas Town for $10USD each way. Bocas Town also has an airport, with service to Panama City roughly twice a day and for about $100USD each way.
Money:
Isla Colon is the only island in Bocas del Toro with an ATM (see map). Each withdrawal will cost you $5.25USD, and you’re allowed to withdraw a maximum of $250USD each time. If you’re able to, try to bring USD with you to the island rather than pay the costly fees associated with withdrawing cash in Bocas del Toro. For the most part, Bocas del Toro is a cash-forward destination – with most accommodations and tour operators requiring cash payment, or levying a 3 – 5% surcharge on credit card payments.
Dining in Bocas Town:
A range of dining options are available in Bocas Town. Avenida Norte (see map) right by the water a gem that serves a delicious jerked chicken plate for salad and fries for just $4USD a plate. Beers are $2USD.
Tom’s Restaurant serves local food and seafood that is both delicious and affordable with views right over the water. Meals include a drink.
Accommodations in Isla Colon:
Skully’s House is just a quick $2USD ferry ride away from the main dock on Bocas del Toro. While it’s slightly away from town, my friends who stayed the assure me that it is well worth the short boat ride.
If you want to stay in town, the Selina Hostel in Bocas Town is a beautiful option, with its own dock. This is the local party spot – which is excellent if that’s what you’re looking for, but perhaps not so much for those who might intend to get some sleep. This property also has a tour desk that allows you to book tours to Cayos Zapitillos, Starfish Beach, Bioluminecent Plankton tour, and the overnight bus from Bocas del Toro to Panama City. The prices are all the same throughout Bocas del Toro, but the benefit of booking at the Selina is that it’s reputable, and you can also pay by credit card without an extra surcharge.
Starfish Beach:
Bocas del Toro is full of postcard-perfect beaches, but the one that rules them all might just be Starfish Beach on Isla Colon. This absolutely stunning beach with crystalline clear, waveless waters filled with starfish can be reached from Bocas Town by a simple $2USD bus from the park in town (see map). There are departures once every hour from 9am – 6pm (schedules may vary). I would strongly recommend to visit during mid-week, as the beach is completely packed on weekends. No, really, don’t come here on a weekend. The only people I’ve met who disliked Starfish beach were the ones who came here on a weekend when the beach was bombarded with too many people, and noisy beach activities like the banana-boat (who ever thought this was a good idea anyway? But I digress…) Seriously, come here mid-week and you’ll find yourself a stunning beach paradise.
Cayos Zapatillos:
Cayos Zapatillos are two tiny slipper shaped uninhabited cays off the coast of Isla Colon. Local legend has it that these tiny slivers of deserted white-sand and palm trees were created when the two feet of God stepped into the ocean leaving two “slippers” of paradise in the azure waters. A day trip to these twin cays will typically cost $25 – $30USD and usually include a stop at Dolphin Bay where a group of dolphins endemic to the area are frequently seen.
Isla Solarte:
Isla Solarte is a small 8km2 island just 1KM away from Bocas Town. The ferry from public dock from Bocas Town to Isla Solarte is $5USD. The island has largely been untouched by infrastructure save for a few oceanside properties which are boat access only through private docks. In 1899 the United Fruit Company established a hospital on the island to treat workers struck by Yellow Fever and Malaria. The hospital was decommissioned in 1920, but Hospital Point (see map) is one of the best spots for snorkeling in the area.
The Bambuda Lodge is a stunning destination-resort on Isla Solarte. The lodge was opened by two friends from Calgary, Canada who have created a paradisaical retreat with a pool overlooking the ocean and a 60 meter waterslide that runs from the reception all the way to the ocean. Both dorms and luxurious private accommodations are available. The property has its own reef about 20 meters from the property’s private dock so bring your snorkel gear, or the property can provide you with snorkel gear for free with a $20USD deposit. SUPs can be rented for $10USD a day, and kayaks and canoes for $15USD a day. The property also organizes group hikes through the jungle to Hospital Point – rubber boots are provided – highly recommend that you use them as the trail is muddy and there are poison dart frogs among other critters – that you may encounter.
You can also SUP or kayak/canoe from the private dock at the Bambuda Lodge to Hospital Point. It takes about 30 – 45 minutes depending on the current and winds. There’s a beach at Hospital Point for you to land your watercraft, but do not leave unattended valuables at the beach – as there’s a high risk of theft. If you’re going snorkeling, consider bringing a water wallet or a swim buoy to carry your valuables with you. The swim buoy has the important added benefit of making you more visible to boaters who frequent the area.
Most guests staying at the Bambuda Lodge will elect to have their meals at the property as there are no restaurants easily accessible from the property. Breakfasts range from $6 – $9USD with unlimited coffee refills for the day. Lunches range from $8 – $12USD and dinners from $9 – $18USD. Beers are $2USD. House wines are $2.5USD per glass, or $14USD for a bottle of a nicer red or white wine. Cocktails are $4 – $5USD.
I stayed 4 nights at the Bambuda Lodge and absolutely loved my time there. The staff – even the ones you hadn’t met before – somehow know you by name within a day of your stay, and the service is outstanding. The food and drink prices are quite reasonable and the communal dinners are a great way to meet other travelers.
The Blue Coconut:
Blue Coconut is a bar that is situated on its only tiny island just off the shore of Isla Bastimentos. The bar is accessible by water taxis from most islands in Bocas, but if you’re on Isla Solarte, you can also easily kayak or paddle there on a standup paddleboard. It took me about 20 minutes to paddle there on a SUP from the Bambuda Lodge. The bar serves a variety of food and drinks and has hammocks in the water, so you can have a true in-ocean experience while you enjoy a cocktail or two. If you order food and drinks the owner will also lend you some snorkeling gear so you can snorkel in the waters around the bar. There are a lot of fish underneath the dock. Note that the bar is closed on Fridays as it’s a destination for “Filthy Fridays” a Bocas-wide bar-hopping excursion that runs all day.
Isla Bastimentos:
Isla Bastimentos is one of the more populated islands outside of Isla Colon, but offers a much more relaxed experience. The island has some of the most beautiful beaches in Bocas del Toro with Wizard Beach and Red Frog Beach to the North of the Island being two of the most popular on the island.
The Afro-Caribbean town of Old Bank is the main town on Isla Bastimentos and offers a number of grocery stores, restaurants and basic services. Enjoy seeing the brightly coloured houses and buildings of “Basti” as Old Bank is affectionately known by both the locals and in and around Bocas. People here are friendly, and quick to help without expecting anything in return. There is a rugged trail from Old Bank that takes you to the north side of the island to Wizard Beach. Note this trail may become impassibly muddy after periods of rain. I was also blocked by about 20 loose bulls on the trail one day while trying to walk to Wizard beach – so be prepared for some surprises.
Accommodations on Isla Bastimentos:
El Jaguar offers affordable, basic accommodations right over the water in Old Town. The property has its own dock with hammocks to relax the days and nights away by the water. They also rent kayaks for $8USD for a half day for a single or $10USD for a half day for a double-kayak.
Palmar Beach Lodge on the north side of the Isla Bastimentos offers a glamping style experience right on Red Frog Beach. The property has dorms, tents and private rooms and cabanas available as well as a restaurant, and services like yoga on-site.
Wizard Beach:
Beautiful Wizard beach with its fine golden-white sand is a popular surf destination in Bocas del Toro. On the North side of Isla Bastimentos, Wizard beach is accessible via a rugged trail from Old Bank (45 minutes – 1 hour walk). As the wavy waters prevent easy boat access to this beach, it is quite often very deserted, with only a handful of surfers who managed the hike from Old Bank occupying the beach. Accordingly locals warn not to bring anything of value to the beach – as petty theft can be a problem. If you must bring valuables consider bringing a water wallet or a swim buoy to bring your valuables with you when you go for a swim.
Red Frog Beach:
One of the most popular beaches on Isla Bastimentos is Red Frog Beach – named after the Strawberry Poison Dart frogs that are endemic to the area. This beach is easily accessible via a water taxi from Old Bank ($5USD) or other islands. The ferries do not land directly on the beach, but rather on a dock on the south side of the island directly across from the beach, you’ll then need to pay a $5USD fee to take the trail to the beach as it crosses over private land (10 minute walk).
Alternately, you can also walk East along the shore from Wizard beach all the way to Red Frog Beach (1 hour walk). Stay on the beach as much as possible as the inland paths can be quite rugged and muddy. It might be better to walk through the water on the beach (if it’s shallow enough) than take the inland path. Recommend wearing rugged hiking sandals like Tevas or Chacos that you can get wet in the ocean for this walk.
Polo Beach:
East of Red Frog Beach, there’s an inland trail that leads to Polo Beach – which came highly recommended to me by a local, and is also regarded as one of the most beautiful beaches in Bocas del Toro. The beach is protected by a coral reef that keeps the crystalline waters calm. Unfortunately, I only found out about this beach on my last day in Isla Bastimentos and did not get a chance to visit it myself. The more remote access for this beach (no direct water taxis), and the sizable hike from Red Frog beach, means it is a more secluded beach experience.
Trip Costs for 11 days and 9 nights of Island-Hopping in Bocas del Toro:
Transportation: $65USD
Accommodations: $333.10USD
Food & Groceries: $207.00USD
Excursions & Rentals: $45USD
Other & SIM Card: $6.50USD
Total Costs: $656.60USD
Final thoughts on Island-Hopping in Bocas del Toro:
Island hopping in Bocas del Toro allowed me to see many different facets of this beautiful region of Panama according to my own interests and schedule. Once here, the natural beauty of these islands allow you to do things like kayaking, SUPing, snorkeling, and hiking – which are all wonderful activities that are easy on the budget. Despite Bocas del Toro, being arguably one of the most touristy destinations in Panama, it is still possible to find yourself in remote pieces of paradise all by yourself.
