“All You Need is Less” was what was written on a wooden hand-painted placard at the Arte y Aventura Ecohotel on Isla Grande in the island chain of the Islas del Rosarios in Colombia. Of course, I stupidly did not take a photo of this beautiful placard, I argue, in the spirit of the slogan itself – or so I tell myself. The Rosario islands of Colombia are just a 1 hour boat ride from the Caribbean Metropolis of Cartagena – but the two places could not be more different. After our wonderful visit to Minca, Jens and I spent 3 blissful days relaxing around the Rosario Islands. This post features some ideas on how to visit Isla Grande in the Rosario Islands, Colombia.
Islas del Rosarios consist of 27 small islands with Isla Grande and Isla del Rosario being the two largest. There are no motorized vehicles on the islands, so everything needs to be carried, carted, or bicycled around the island. Compared the hustle, bustle, and general craziness of Cartagena just an hour away, Isla Grande is practically Robinson Crusoe-esque with its quiet white sand beaches, and carless sandy paths. In my opinion, how to best visit Isla Grande, Colombia is to first embrace the concept of less is more; and let these beautiful islands slow life down for you for a few days.
Contents:
- How to visit Isla Grande, Colombia
- Accommodations
- Dining
- Snorkeling
- Visit Pablo Escobar’s Abandoned Mansion
- Explore the Mangrove Forest
- Bioluminescent Plankton Swim
- Trip expenses for 3 days and 2 nights on Isla Grande, Colombia
- Final thoughts on Isla Grande, Colombia
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How to visit Isla Grande, Colombia:
Cartagena is the major gateway for most excursions and transfers to the Islas del Rosario. You can visit the Rosario islands through a day trip that begins and ends in Cartagena or you might opt for what Jens and I did and stay overnight on one of the islands for a night or two to get the full-island experience. Various companies run transfers between Cartagena and Isla Grande. You can view pricing, schedules and book tickets here.
Accommodations:
Most hotels are on Isla Grande. Jens and I stayed at the Arte y Aventura Ecohotel which is an off-grid property about a 5-10 minute walk from the main boat dock on Isla Grande. Owners Carlos and Viviana are originally from the Colombian mainland, and have moved to Isla Grande with their young son to enjoy the slower pace of life on beautiful Isla Grande. Carlos is an amazing artist and his artwork is displayed throughout the property. In addition to being an artist, Carlos is the resident head chef at Arte y Aventura Ecohotel, and makes delicious home-cooked meals for guests. Don’t miss out on his hand-made arepas! He painstakingly grinds the corn by hand – the old-fashioned way – and the results are absolutely delicious – and a rarity to try these days.
There is no running water or electricity at Arte y Aventura – so be advised that freshwater is rationed daily – ie: a large bucket of water is provided for “bucket showers” and electricity is only available during the day – as the property uses solar panels to generate the small amount of electricity they use for the day. This is obviously not for everyone, but Jens and I loved the experience. Not having running water made us see how much water we waste in our regular lives, and realize how little we actually needed.
If you’re not ready for an off-grid experience, Hotel San Pedro de Majagua and Hotel Isla del Sol are two well-reviewed beachfront mid-range accommodations options on Isla Grande that do have your typical hotel amenities.
Dining:
Most hotels and guesthouses will have restaurants or made-to-order dining options for guests staying at the property. You don’t have to dine at your guesthouse, but your options may be limited on Isla Grande. If you want to venture out to dine at another property, it’s a good idea to inquire an hour or two beforehand as smaller properties need some prior notice to serve off-property guests.
Gente del Mar on the Eastern tip of the island has private beach that you can use if you purchase food and/or drink, as well as a full-service bar and restaurant. No need to inquire beforehand with a large property like this about whether they can accommodate you for a meal. They also accept credit cards.
Sol Y Papaya – located right next to the boat dock where guests get their transfers back to Cartagena is an amazing spot to get lunch or just spend a good chuck of the day relaxing in front of a magnificent beach with some reasonably priced food and drink. This beautiful restaurant right on the beachfront has beautiful sunbeds and loungers that you can us if you just order food and/or drinks. The service is unhurried, and you can stay as long as you like. An excellent place to spend the morning before an afternoon transfer to Cartagena – you can relax on the beach right until you see your boat pull up! Credit cards accepted.
Snorkeling:
Your guesthouse can arrange a snorkeling tour for you with a local boat guide. These half-day tours are generally quite inexpensive – around $20 – $25USD. The tour will take you to a number of sites including a sunken plane right off of Pablo Escobar’s abandoned mansion. Note: everyone thinks that this plane wreck is associated with Escobar’s illicit activities, but it was actually sunk on purpose by scientists studying the impact of the ocean biosphere on the plane’s metal structure.
Visit Pablo Escobar’s abandoned mansion:
Pablo Escobar’s abandoned mansion is on the western end of the island. There is a dirt road that leads you there. Note that the site has been taken over by squatters. Worth a quick look so long as you’re respectful to those who now live there.
Explore the Mangrove Forest:
Most guest houses will have a canoe tour of the Mangrove forest on the island. This peaceful guided paddle generally takes you through a water pathway through the island to a lagoon near the centre of the island. Bring bug spray!
Bioluminescent Plankton Swim:
There bioluminescent plankton in the waters around Isla Grande. Depending on the year, as well as how much moonlight there is, your hotel or guesthouse can take you out to where you can swim in sparkly bioluminescent waters. In the right conditions (ie: total darkness) swimming in bioluminescent plankton is an amazing experience. I’ve watched stoic adults turn into children splashing and playing in be-wonderment as the water lights up like thousands of fairy lights around them. Beware however, if there is a full moon or even a bright half-moon – don’t go – there will be too much moonlight for you to see the bioluminescence.
Trip expenses for 3 days and 2 nights on Isla Grande, Colombia (2 people):
Accommodations: $55USD
Transportation: $34USD
Food and Dining: $88USD
Excursions: $40USD
Total: $217USD (for two people) / $108.50USD for one person
Final thoughts on Isla Grande, Colombia:
Isla Grande was the perfect place for Jens and I to cap off our 3 week adventure together in Colombia. The simplicity of life on the Rosario Islands creates the perfect environment for slowing down and getting back to the basics. All types of accommodations options exist on the island – from luxury, to off-grid “Ecohotels” that have limited water and electricity usage. As long as you know what you’re getting into – and are open to living out the idea that “All you need is less” I highly recommend trying an Ecohotel on the island. Learning how to use less water and electricity while getting down to enjoying the basics on this beautiful island is an experience in and of itself.