After a week in the misty highlands of Salento, I was ready to get back to the ocean. I was drawn to the idea of visiting the island of San Andres. Located closer to Nicaragua than Colombia, in the middle of the Caribbean sea; the tiny Colombian island of San Andres is as beautiful as it is popular. San Andres has some of the world’s best (and cheapest diving), and has stunning tropical cays that are easy to visit on a day trip from the main island. The island is a special jurisdiction in Colombia, and has an entry tax of 124,000 COP (approximately $30USD) – which you are required to pay (by card or cash) prior to boarding your flight. The island is also a tax-free zone, and consequently, parts of San Andres town can look a bit like a giant airport duty-free zone. Even in low season, the beaches of the main town of San Andres Town are often completely packed with local and foreign tourists. Imagine my surprise when I arrived for a 9 day stay in San Andres Town, expecting a quiet idyllic island in the middle of the Caribbean Sea only to find a mini-metropolis whose streets were lined with duty-free shops and whose beaches were completely packed with tourists? While all the duty-free shopping and activity could be great for some people; I found refuge in the mostly in the gorgeous underwater world: diving, snorkeling and exploring in San Andres.
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Contents:
- Transportation
- Accommodations
- Dining
- Diving and Snorkeling in San Andres
- Johnny Cay
- Cayo El Acuario
- Cayo Haynes
- Riding a Scooter or a Bicycle around San Andres
- Trip costs for 9 days and 8 nights in San Andres
- Final thoughts on San Andres, Colombia
Transportation:
Getting to San Andres is relatively simple. There are inexpensive regular flights (usually less than $100USD one-way) to San Andres from most major airports on the Colombian mainland. Once you arrive on the island, the transportation situation can be more tricky. Cab fares tend to be inflated here. A short 1KM ride from the airport can cost 10,000 – 15,000 COP ($2.5 – $3.75USD), which is quite pricey compared to the mainland. A single-way ride to mid-island will put you in the 40,000 COP range ($10USD). There is a public bus service, but the schedule can be erratic, and the drivers do not always stop for passengers. If you’re not staying in San Andres town, it might be worthwhile to look into a scooter rental for your stay so you can easily and reliably get around the island.
Accommodations:
For budget travellers, there are not a lot of hostel options available on the island. In San Andres town El Viajero hostel, offers basic budget accommodations. My friends who stayed outside of San Andres town had rave reviews about Republica Hostel, on the mid-Western side of the island. For those so inclined, there’s also all-inclusive hotel options such as the Decameron San Luis.
Dining:
A range of dining options are available on San Andres. From fancy restaurants on the waterfront in San Andres Town, to inexpensive eateries where it is common to get a set menu with a drink, soup and main plate for 15,000 COP (approx. $3.75USD). I tended to frequent the inexpensive eateries as I found the food fresh, delicious and budget-friendly, my favourites were Restaurante Bushi Food, Restaurant el Parqueadero, and Restaurante Sol y Sombra – all served set menus (soup, main dish and a drink) for about 10,000 – 15,000 COP or $2.75 – $3.25USD (See map for restaurant locations). La Cordobesa is a late night empanada stand that has the best empanada’s on the island – be sure to try their hot sauce with your empanadas.
Diving and Snorkeling in San Andres:
San Andres has some of the most beautiful diving in the world, at some of the lowest prices on the planet. Whether you’re getting you PADI Open-Water certification or an advanced diver looking to do a few dives around the island you’re sure to find what you’re looking for on San Andres. Buceo Blue Life was one of the most professional dive shops I have encountered during my travels and I would highly recommend them for those looking for dive courses or dive excursions in San Andres. I saw PADI Open-Water certification courses for about $300USD, which is the lowest I have seen anywhere in the world. Two-tank dives for certified divers are approximately 200,000 COP (approximately $50USD), again the cheapest I have seen anywhere in the world.
There is also some amazing snorkeling to be had around San Andres, particularly on the nearby cays of Cayo El Acuario and Cayo Haynes. On the main island of San Andres, there is some good snorkeling at La Piscinita in West View.
Johnny Cay:
Right across from San Andres Town is beautiful Johnny Cay. This speck of white sand and palm trees has a few restaurants in the centre of the island serving up Caribbean staples like fried mojarra and cold beers. A walk around the entire island takes about 10 minutes – so it’s very small. You can combine you trip to Johnny Cay with an “all-inclusive” ticket that stops also at Cayo Acuario and Cayo Haynes. The two latter islands should not be missed, so definitely recommend taking the all-inclusive ticket.
Cayo El Acuario:
Cayo Acuario is a popular sandbank that literally means “Aquarium Cay” named so because of the outstanding snorkeling that can be found as soon as you step into the waveless waters. There’s is quite literally an aquarium-like area right off the shore of the cay that is absolutely full of every kind of tropical fish imaginable. Very family-friendly, and absolutely ideal if you have small children. You can actually walk in waist-deep water to the neighboring island – Cayo Haynes in about 5 minutes. There’s also a small sand bank connecting the two small islands in case you want to avoid walking through the water.
Cayo Haynes:
Just a 5 minute walk (whether on the sandbank or through the shallow waters) away from Cayo El Acuario is an equally tiny paradisaical island that has a few restaurants and bars, and can be walked around in less than 10 minutes. The benefit of snorkeling off the beaches of Cayo Haynes, is that there are far fewer people here (everyone tends to just stay in Cayo Acuario for snorkeling). Be sure to bring water shoes as the beaches off Cayo Haynes can be rocky. I saw two nurse sharks right off the shore as soon as I put my face in the water as well as a manta ray – it was incredible!
Riding a scooter or bicycle around San Andres:
A great way to see the island is to ride or bike the 30KM ocean-ring road that runs the entire circumference of the island. There is little traffic once you leave San Andres town, and you’ll be able to find less crowded places that give you the peace you’re going to want to find from the crowds in San Andres Town. A full day scooter rental runs anywhere between 70,000 – 100,000 COP ($17 – $25USD). There are rental shops everywhere, but your hostel, hotel or guesthouse can definitely help you arrange a rental. Bike rentals are also available anywhere from $10 – $20USD a day.
Points of interest along a round-the-island ride include:
- La Piscinita: An oceanside swimming area owned by members of the local Raizal community. Entrance costs 5000 COP (or $1.25USD), and there are sun loungers, umbrellas, and a nice area for swimming and snorkeling – all included in your ticket price.
- Hoyo Soplador: a naturally formed geyser at the southern tip of San Andres island that spouts seawater through a natural hole in the rocks sometimes as high as 10 – 20 meters. The phenomenon is strongest depending on the tides and winds, so do ask beforehand at your hotel or guesthouse about what times are best to visit the geyser if you want to see it in action.
- San Luis: This 3km long string of houses that form a sort of village on the East Coast of San Andres. The area has some lovely, quiet white-sand beaches that can be great for snorkeling in calm conditions. Great place to go if you’re looking for a quieter beach day than what you can get in town.
- Playa Rocky Cay: A number of upscale hotels front this beach – but don’t let their signage fool you: the beach is public (as are all beaches in Colombia). Not exactly a quiet place, due to the proximity of the big hotels, but a nice beach nonetheless. You can swim-walk to Rocky Cay about 250 meters away from this beach.
- Rocky Cay: A tiny rocky island that can be reached by swimming/walking from Playa Rocky Cay, or by boat services available on the beach. The island is a nice viewpoint of a nearby shipwreck, and has a fairly pricey bar. Please wear shoes here! There is broken glass everywhere. If you are swimming in, wear water shoes to help you land on the rocky beach and navigate any broken glass. Consider using a swim buoy for safety/visibility if you’re swimming here and to carry any items that you need when you reach the island.
- La Loma: a village in the centre of the island also known as “the Hill” is one of the oldest Raizal settlements on the island, and is also known for having the oldest Baptist church on the island.
- Cocoplum Bay: I did not end up visiting this beach, but I’ve been told it’s also quite nice and more peaceful than the beaches in San Andres Town.
Trip costs for 9 days and 8 nights in San Andres, Colombia:
Accommodations: $202.44USD
Airfare – Pereira to San Andres: $70.33USD
Transportation: $6.25USD
Excursions and rentals: $152.41USD
Food and Dining: $113.93USD
Souvenirs: $40.73USD
Total: $586.09USD
Final thoughts on San Andres, Colombia:
While I was surprised that parts of San Andres Island ended up being as busy as it turned out to be; I eventually realized you can find your own piece of whatever paradise you are looking for on this island as long as you’re willing to explore. There’s something for everyone on San Andres – whether it is shopping for tax-free high-end designer products along the SkyMall-esque streets of San Andres town, to diving and snorkeling in some of the most beautiful underwater spots in the Caribbean. My costs were a little higher in San Andres for a number of factors – one being I did two double-tank dives during my nine days on the island, and another reason – is simply that there is a cost-premium when you are on an island in the middle of the Caribbean Sea. Johnny Cay, Cayo Acuario and Cayo Haynes were absolutely beautiful little pieces of paradise and less crowded than the main island. My efforts to escape the crowds in the main town pushed me to circumnavigate the island on a scooter in search of peaceful beaches – something I may not have done if the main town hadn’t had been so busy – so all in all, a great visit!
